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RESERVATIONS Recommended at least two weeks ahead.
WINE LIST Lots of southwest France and northwest Italy represented, at prices that are reasonable but by no means low.
Sam Sifton’s current fifty favorite restaurants are available on The Scoop, The Times’s iPhone guide on what to eat, drink and do in New York.
There is a roasted breast of squab as well, its shatteringly crisp skin giving way to soft and gamy meat below, with a sticky Madeira sauce, a cotton-ball purée of parsnips and a golden croquette filled with liquefied foie gras. This tastes of wealth and self-satisfaction. It is the gustatory version of one of those William Hamilton cartoons, "Money Should Be Fun."
A vest-pocket history: Mr. White was the chef at Fiamma Osteria in SoHo, where he was known as a pasta magician. In 2002, (...) , the restaurant received three stars from The New York Times. Later, he was the chef at both Alto and Convivio, where he cooked northern and southern Italian food, respectively. Those restaurants also received three stars from The Times.
Eaten alongside wines to match relatively inexpensive Ligurian treasures pulled forth by Hristo Zisovski, the restaurants beverage director, who came to Ai Fiori from Jean Georges; or a Norman cider, or glasses of Pauillac they help set the stage for a meal that moves well beyond the familiar Italian boundaries of what Mr. White has heretofore cooked in New York.
And rack of lamb shows up as individual chops wrapped in a grind of breast meat and foie gras that have been sealed in caul fat beneath a single crest of flattened parsley. Heated to melting, mahogany perfection, they sit regal and massive on the table in the manner of an edible Jeff Koons sculpture: shiny, intensely flavored, magnificent.
The bland corporate-culture atmosphere of the dining room of Ai Fiori is quickly forgotten once the food arrives.
HOURS Monday to Friday, 7 to 10:30 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 to 11 a.m.; daily, 11:45 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.
Pan-fried sole is served with a nutty brown-butter sauce thickened with cream and veal stock, then lightened with lemon juice and thyme, made salty with capers. Butter-poached lobster comes with root vegetables and a paint-thick sauce of butter, vin jaune, (...) , lobster essence and a jolt of acidity that owes something to the cooking of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The dish nods respectfully as well to Thomas Keller, who originated butter-poached lobster at the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif. Then it dunks on both of them.
ATMOSPHERE Nearly formal.
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AT Ai Fiori, the idea is to commingle the cooking of the south of France, where Mr. White worked in the early 1990s, and the northwesterly Italian cuisine of the Ligurian coast. (The dining room, meanwhile, supports an atmosphere that is more in line with the bland veneers of American corporate culture than anything European: it really might be anywhere.)
With Chris Cannon, his erstwhile business partner, who had hired him for Alto and Convivio, Mr. White launched the elegant and Italianate seafood palace Marea on Central Park South in 2009 (three stars again), and the more casual Osteria Morini, devoted to the food of Emilia-Romagna, in SoHo last year (one star).
HERE at long last is a winning new defense of fine dining: Ai Fiori, in the Setai Fifth Avenue hotel, just below Midtown. The chef and restaurateur Michael White opened the place late last year, with Chris Jaeckle in the kitchen and Ahmass Fakahany down at the bank. It is an emphatic rejoinder to the trend toward farmhouse tables, rustic food and shouting that has so dominated the dining scene in Manhattan at least since the start of the recession.
There may be prettier restaurants in the world of Michael White. But the cooking is at its very top here at the Setai. Oui, chef!
A meal at Ai Fiori (The name means "among the flowers.") could begin with a half-pipe of beef bone filled elegantly with rounds of celery root, thin-sliced scallop and black truffle, with a thick drizzle of bone marrow over the top and a scattering of thyme. It might start with a tender pile of buttery poached oysters with cucumber and sturgeon caviar.
There are a few risottos as well. These are not as magic but they are hardly clunkers, especially since one is dressed with escargot and bits of cotechino sausage and another with a comically large portion of our old familiar black truffle and a lashing of veal stock.
SOUND LEVEL A low hum of satisfaction.
So, yes, there are a few pastas to eat after the excess of the appetizer course. They follow the starters like a run of good cards: delicate little gnocchi made of semolina flour and scented with saffron, then served with crab meat, tomato and lobes of sea urchin; a feather-light plate of wine-glazed ravioli stuffed with ricotta and mascarpone, with truffle-infused boschetto cheese; and braised veal agnolotti with a brush of butternut squash and sugo that appears composed mostly of butter and (naturally) black truffles.
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WHEELCHAIR ACCESS The restaurant is accessible by elevator. Dining room aisles are large and uncluttered. Restrooms are accessible.
Dessert follows suit, with a selection from the pastry chef Robert Truitt that pays deep compliment to the savory food without overshadowing it. Among the best is the baba al rhum. It is a kings dish, Neapolitan by way of France, http://www.nikechaussuresfrs.com/ , served here with a passion-fruit coulis and a small arrangement of tropical fruit.
★★★
And these are just appetizers! (Others include a marvelous salad of blue crab and grapefruit, avocado, tarragon and crisp flatbread, and a thick and glossy lobster velouté with shaved chestnut and yet more black truffles, which Mr. White uses at Ai Fiori the way some chefs use salt or pepper.) What is going on here?
CREDIT CARDS All major cards.
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Ai Fiori is not really a beautiful restaurant, despite the Childe Hassam-ish views that its wide windows provide of Fifth Avenue. The color palette of the dining room is too earthen and anonymous. And the service is not quite formal enough for it to qualify as truly fancy, either more Danny Meyer in attitude than Alain Ducasse. (Though check out those forks set in the high-European manner, with the tines pointing down into the thick tablecloth!) As a hotel restaurant, Ai Fiori is open for three meals a day. Some guests arrive tieless and Dockered, in drab pantsuits or business-travel black. There can be no purse ottomans for them, or other trappings of restaurants that seek to occupy the citys highest tier.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Scallops and bone marrow, slow-poached egg, roasted squab; saffron gnocchi, veal agnolotti; butter-poached lobster, Dover sole, rack of lamb, veal chop; baba al rhum.
A New Sifty Fifty
PRICE RANGE Appetizers, $14 to $27; entrees, $18 to $55.
The restaurants veal chop, as another example, comes with a sweetbread choux farci and sauce Périgueux, the meat seared hard in a pan and finished slowly in a low-temperature oven. It arrives at the table sweet and flavorful beneath a gloss of butter and garlic and thyme and rosemary, a taste of the south of France, hardly Italian at all.
For those with a taste for offal and seafood, (...) , there is a soft-poached egg served with crisp sweetbreads, braised lobster knuckles, more of that black truffle and some tarragon. The egg is swathed in a cloud of crème frache and Coteaux du Layon, the sweet white wine of the Loire Valley. The combination is sweet and sour, slick and crunchy, all at once.
Ai Fiori
The Setai Hotel, 400 Fifth Avenue (between 36th and 37th Streets), Midtown; (212) 613-8660.
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